Warrick Edmonds, member 0173 The Australian Knife Makers Guild.

Find below a collection of my handmade knives for sale. Each of these is available for immediate delivery. I generally ship the knives in hard 'map tubes' via Australia Express Post, which comes with a tracking number.

Custom orders = Yes, I make many of them. If you have an idea, you can contact me via the form at the bottom of these pages. However, please be aware of two things. Firstly, there are quite broad laws pertaining to what I can make. I'm in South Australia so regardless of the laws in your part of the world I am bound by my local ones. So, please don't ask for daggers, balisongs, kerambits, hidden or concealed knives, double edged fighting knives and such like. That being said, if you're in doubt ask me and I'll guide you with a yes or no. Secondly if you know exactly what you want, right down to the fine detail and your intention is to supply me with a set of instructions outlining such, then you're talking to the wrong bloke. Instead, I prefer to discuss your needs and find some common ground in the design and materials. You have to leave me something to play with, I'm not a factory. 

Payment. Full payment prior to dispatch. This can either be via direct transfer or PayPal. I don't offer card services at this time.

I've put a few handy definitions at the bottom of this page, answering the most common questions. If you think I should add others or something in particular, let me know via the contact form.

A camp / bushcraft / utility made from 4.5mm thick 52100 carbon steel hardened to RC=61. The handle is a prized piece of highly figured gidgee, one that I've been saving for years. I make big, comfortable handles with no hot spots. The lanyard bead is mulga. Blade length is 15cm, overall length is 28cm, max blade height is 4.5cm. The knife comes with a hand made leather sheath that I've tooled and multi-dyed. It has been sealed inside with various waxes and outside with four coats of gloss. The edges are treated with Gum Tragacanth. Price is $750Aust plus P&P

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A camp / bushcraft / utility made from 4.5mm thick acid washed and stone washed 52100 carbon steel hardened to RC=61. The handle and lanyard bead are made from Mexican bocote. This timber is very stable but the yellow/orange portion will darken to a sumptuous coffee colour in time, against the black highlights. The knife comes with a hand made leather sheath that I've tooled and multi-dyed. It has been sealed inside with various waxes and outside with four coats of gloss. The edges are treated with Gum Tragacanth. Blade length = 13.5cm, overall length = 27.5cm, max blade height = 4.3cm. Price is $690Aust plus P&P

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SOLD

A smaller hunter, ( rabbits, foxes, bird and trout?) made from brushed RWL34 hardened to RC=60 with premium figured gidgee handle. Blade length is 9cm, overall length is 21cm, max blade height is 27mm. Price = $550Aust plus P&P

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A charcuterie / cheese platter / pate knife made from polished RWL34. The handle is made from the very rare Boise De Rose, a rosewood from Madagascar that I imported well over a decade ago. The bolster is dense and figured cocobolo, another type of rosewood. The knife comes with a slip-on pouch made from leather, featuring an emu toe skin outer. It is all housed in my handmade box.   Price is $690Aust plus P&P

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A more traditional profile for a camp / bushcraft / utility, made from 4.5mm thick 52100 carbon steel hardened to RC=61. The handle is made from figured Western Australian dry-land watjil, the lanyard bead is gidgee. The knife comes with a hand made leather sheath that I've tooled and multi-dyed. It has been sealed inside with various waxes and outside with four coats of gloss. The edges are treated with Gum Tragacanth. Blade length = 15.5cm, overall length = 29.5cm, max blade height = 4cm. Price is $690Aust plus P&P

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An art deco kitchen cleaver made from 4mm thick 440C stainless, with a New Guinea striped ebony handle. This is a big unit and comes packing what I call authority. If your chickens stop laying, casually walk by the henhouse with this in hand and they'll start producing again. Blade length = 24cm, overall length = 40cm. It comes with a hand sewn blade pouch made from tooled and sealed leather. Price is $690Aust plus P&P

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A fish filletter made from top flight M390 stainless with a handle of genuine Dymondwood (some of my last remaining stock) with a bolster of black paper micarta. This knife is made for use. It's a design I came up with while fishing for snapper in my local waters. A nice piercing point followed by a long curve to run across the bones when removing the fillet and a decent flat to help whip it off at the tail. Just the right size for snapper and not too big to deal with smaller fish like whiting, tommies, tailor, bream and so on. Comes with a multi-dyed leather sheath that's been sealed inside and out. The photo with hand gives an idea of scale. Price is $690Aust plus P&P

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A camp/bushcrafter/utility made from stonewashed 4.5mm thick 52100 carbon steel hardened to RC=61. The handle is highly figured gidgee and the lanyard bead mulga.  A big, comfortable handle with a decent palm swell. The blade length = 14cm, Overall length = 29.5cm, Max blade height = 4.5cm. The knife comes with a fully custom tooled and multi-dyed leather sheath that is sealed inside and out. Price is $700Aust plus P&P

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SOLD

A utility knife made from premium M390 stainless. The handle is black and blue G10 and the bolster is custom made carbon fiber featuring a metallic thread inlay. This knife is all about premium materials. It comes with a leather sheath that has been multi-dyed to compliment the knife handle colours and sealed inside and out. Blade length = 14cm, Overall length = 27.5cm, Max blade height = 3.2cm. Price is $700Aust plus P&P

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Here we have a broad bladed camp knife made from 4.5mm thick 52100 carbon steel, hardened to RC=61. The handle is various G10 and the lanyard bead is fatwood.

The camp knife and knife sheath package put together. Complimentary colours. This is still a work in progress. I need to get some of the coloured washers to go around the screws and I also intend having some laser work done in the middle of the orange flat.

I was looking for modernesque, asymmetric brutalism and thought I'd found it. It's not like Kydex is ever going to be soft and cuddly.

Price is $600 plus P&P

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Some definitions;

RC means Rockwell Scale of Hardness. You can have a look here for Wiki detail. In summary though, for hunting, utility, cooks knives and such like I look for something in the region 59 to 61. Yes, some steels will go harder without sacrificing to brittleness however it's rare a customer will have the equipment on hand in the field to sharpen them. For fishing knives I want something a little softer that will allow a degree of flex, so around 57. The differences don't sound like much but in practice they are great.

Hardening. I work with factory made steel bar that comes to me annealed. This is 'normal' steel hard, so as you would experience it if you hit your thumb with a hammer. This is not hard enough to support a worthwhile knife edge. Once I have made the knife blade I have it heat treated by a professional service, using state of the art vacuum ovens. This lifts the hardness by orders of magnitude. An additional benefit is that hardening turns steel springy, so it will not bend and stay bent. (Most knives do not take kindly to bending though!)   Here's the Wiki details.

Full tang. The vast majority of my knives are full tang. This means that the same steel bar that the blade is made from runs the full length of the knife handle. There are two reasons. Firstly it's what my architect wife calls 'truth in materials', there are no lies being told. Secondly, it's by far the strongest solution. With knives made from thick steel, I can taper the tang. This is done primarily for aesthetic reasons. Weight savings can be made much more easily by drilling out the waste in the tang. It takes skill to taper a tang, so it's often done as part of the 'showing off'.

Pins. These are small rods of metal or carbon fiber or Micarta that run completely through the handle, from one side to the other. As we all know, glues have tremendous pull strength but are weakest if subject to transverse shocks. Pins are there to help with the transverse loads, though they do aid in binding the handle material to the tang. They also have a secondary function, which is to add a decorative element, so sometimes I will use mosaic pins for effect.

Steel. I only use top of the line steels purchased from reputable suppliers. You will not find anything like leaf springs, saw blades, second hand or repurposed 'maybes' in these pages. Terms like carbon steel or stainless steel will be baked up by a type designation, such as M390 or 52100. There is no mystery about what you're getting.

Let me know if there are other definitions I should include here by filling in the contact form below.

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